戰後製衣業可粗略分成四個階段: (1). 戰後至 1950 年代的出口英屬地區時期。因為香港是英國殖民地,受惠於英聯邦特惠稅。 (2). 1950 年代末歐美市場開放,出口歐美時期。 (3). 1970 年代初起美國正式向香港棉織品實施配額,到亞洲落後國家設廠時期。 (4). 1980 年代初起開始北移到內地開設廠房。
香港製衣業的前景面臨新的考驗。香港大部分製造商如皮革製品商都是中小型企業, 主要為北美,西歐和日本的領先品牌生產產品。現在,越來越多的製造商選擇自行處理設計和開發,做模和質量控制。當中有些人仍然更喜歡向海外進口商和分銷商銷售產品,然後再向批發商和零售商銷售產品。其中,皮革服裝佔 2017 年出口的
在過去十多年間,本地紡織和製衣廠,從業員的數目逐年下降,令香港的紡織及製衣業驟看好像日漸式微。根據香港政府統計處資料至 2017 年 12 月,本港有 60 人從事皮革產品製造業。仍然堅守香港的製衣企業唯有重新定向發展路線,通過提高產品質量,加出口項目的價值及發展新產品,其中包括用各種混合纖維製造的高檔時裝打開銷路,繼續生存。
都是按照客人的條件度身訂造。 The development of Hong Kong’s garments industry reached its peak after World War 2, where expert weavers and crafters with an expertise in craftsmanship moved to Hong Kong from Shanghai, eager to start anew. With them, they brought in large amounts of cash, technique and cheap labor, contributing to the increasing prosperity. The 1970s and 1980s were the golden ages of Hong Kong’s garment industry. While the leather garment industry - particularly leather jackets - in Hong Kong has largely been overshadowed by the much larger cotton textiles industry in the 20th century due to the demand for low-middle priced products like socks, knitwear and vests, the return of Hong Kong to the Chinese government meant that Hong Kong lost British colony status. This was important because the majority of Hong Kong’s clothing exports were going to other British colonies like Africa, and now that Hong Kong was undergoing similar tariffs as other countries, coupled with the rising prices of land and costs of production, many manufacturers made the decision to move their production facilities to Mainland China where it was cheaper to export and raw materials were more easily acquired. This meant that mass production facilities moved out of Hong Kong and into Mainland China, leaving a small few manufacturers or workshops to specialize in a more niche, bespoke tailor market.
The majority of leather goods manufacturers in Hong Kong are small or medium enterprises which produce for leading brands in North America, Western Europe and Japan. More and more manufacturers nowadays choose to handle the design and development, modelling and quality control themselves. However, many of them still prefer selling to overseas importers and distributors, who in turn market to wholesalers and retailers. Of this, leather garments, bespoke or otherwise, have made up 3.2% of the exports in 2017, but the percentage has been decreasing with each year. Nevertheless, the market shows no signs of dying out for good any time soon as there is still a high demand for quality bespoke leather garments, especially leather jackets, worldwide, particularly ones with a “Made in Hong Kong” label.
Nowadays, buyers from overseas regard Hong Kong as an important sourcing centre for leather coats, jackets, trousers, vests and other goods, due to the industry’s ability to be flexible, create high quality products with a short production time while meeting the customer’s specifications and a quick response to fashion trends. This has allowed Hong Kong’s smaller producers to match the products of large worldwide brands in quality and price. Excellent skills and techniques of experienced artisans allow more complex designs and a wider range of colours, while new products lets designers experiment with new combinations of fabrics for an improved quality on their finished products.
Hong Kong’s bespoke leather jackets and garments workshops are mainly comprised of “Baotou”, which refers to a position in the tailor industry that sells their completed works to retailers. Retail tailor shops take orders from customers, and outsource their production orders to Baotou. On the other side, Baotou take orders from shops, oversee all aspects of production in their workshops including quality control and development, and deliver any completed orders to the tailor shops, which then pass the garments to the customers. This is how Hong Kong’s tailor practice has worked for years, which bypasses production problems of tailor shops and ensures a high standard of quality. Most Baotou currently can be found in Mirador Mansions in Tsim Sha Tsui. One such tailor shop is Kam Ma Leather Garments Workshop, which have been producing bespoke leather jackets and other leather garments for over 3 decades for both tailor shops and individuals.